Hambara (22, 6-ti Septemvrt Street, Sofia) — the cavernous space within is entirely candlelit and spread across two floors with shaky wooden benches and tables.  During the Communist period, as of now, patrons know of this venue strictly by word of mouth.  People here are notorious for failing to observe the smoking ban, but this is arguably only in the spirit of things at this enchanting venue for local jazz acts.